Baltic Cruise 2019, Part 9: All In With Tallinn

When Dad and I first discussed going on a Baltic cruise, we looked at lots of options. Because he and Mom had used Princess so much, we both leaned towards them, but we did look at other options to see what was out there.

We eventually landed on our Princess cruise, with seven ports. I looked at the list and said, "So, um, what's Tallinn?"

Tallinn is the capitol of tiny Estonia, a former member (quite grudgingly, I might add), of the USSR. I had heard of Estonia, but not Tallinn specifically, so I set out to learn where this place is, and why I might want to spend a day there.

I started with Instagram. One way I've learned about other cities--specifically Amsterdam and Vienna--before visiting is to follow Instagram accounts and get an idea what they look like before I go. It helps me devise a list of things I want to see and do while there. So I followed an official Instagram for Tallinn, and was immediately charmed.

Tallinn, you see, goes back to 1154 A.D., and it is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe.

It is also absolutely beautiful and charming.

There's not a lot to it, really; it's a small city, but it's booming--Skype was invented here.

Several months ago, a Stockton Chorale friend told me to look up the Singing Revolution before I visited Tallinn, so a week before we left on the cruise, I did. I even watched the documentary, which is worth every minute. I fell even more in love with the place before I even left California. By the time we docked in Tallinn, I was so ready to see it, I could hardly stand it.

Tallinn did not disappoint. On this trip, I played favorites, and Tallinn, Estonia was my favorite. (Second place? Stockholm.)

We started out by meeting our guide, Raoul ("I am Rrrrrrraoul, and yes, I am Estonian, even with my Spanish name!") at the bus, and driving a very short way into the town proper. From there, we spent the next four hours on a walking tour of Toompea Hill, also known as the "Upper Town."

Raoul led us up the hill and stopped us in front of one of Estonia's Russian Orthodox churches. Estonia is a Lutheran nation, but it has also been influenced by near neighbors.

We gathered in a grassy area just off the square for a moment, where Raoul explained a few things and then told us to ask any questions, "Except, 'Where is the bathroom?' I do not like this question." We all laughed, but then, faster than Hermione Granger in Potions Class, my hand shot up.

"Yes, Miss?"

"The Singing Revolution."

Raoul's face lit up. "Aaahhh, this young lady has been doing her homework!!"

During World War Two, Estonia became a bit of contested area between Nazi Germany and Soviet Russia. There was a lot at play, but essentially Russia won, and Estonia, quite unwillingly, became part of the USSR.

Dissenters or anyone who even smelled like they might disagree with this move were sent to work camps in Siberia, and the long Soviet hold began.

But Estonians are a proud people, with a long heritage and love of country...and choral music. Every four years, they hold a huge choral festival, where there are thousands of people on stage singing--and even more in the audience listening and sometimes singing along. It's a big deal, and something the Soviets couldn't stop without looking like assholes, so they allowed it to continue, albeit with good, patriotic, Soviet songs.

In 1947, during the first song festival (Laulupidu) held after the Soviet occupation, Gustav Ernesaks wrote a tune set to the lyrics of a century-old national poem written by Lydia Koidula, “Mu isamaa on minu arm” (“Land of My Fathers, Land That I Love”). This song miraculously slipped by the Soviet censors, and for fifty years it was a musical statement of every Estonian’s desire for freedom. (Source) 

During the 1950s, the song was not allowed, but in the 1960s, Estonians started singing it as a proverbial middle finger to the Soviets. Read my source above--it's quick and gives all the details that I don't want to plagiarize here. And the story is truly fascinating.

Back to my day in Estonia...as we took a few minutes to explore the inside of the Russian Orthodox church, I found Raoul outside and asked about the Singing Revolution. He remembers it well, and was so pleased that I had seen the movie made about it. "This building here," he said, pointing at a pink building behind us, "This was from the part where the Russians were protesting, and the Estonians surrounded them and began singing."

"I thought it looked familiar!" And indeed, re-watching the movie after returning home, I saw the building again.

We continued walking, and I just oohed and aahed and snapped a ton of pictures. As you can see, it's beautiful.

We stopped briefly, at a Lutheran church, much simpler than the ornate Russian Orthodox church, but still beautiful. There, Raoul let us sit a few moments in the pews, telling us the history, and letting us know that the punishment in Estonia for singing out of tune is...

He looked at me.

"Very, very bad?"

"Oh yes, it is very bad. We don't allow singing out of tune."

A bit more wandering, listening to our very funny guide, and then we stopped to take in the view of the Lower Old Town. It was here, too, that we had a few minutes to pop into some shops.

Okay, but this view.

Camera

Phone

I bought a lovely wool sweater that I can use as a jacket this winter, and a few little magnets and postcards and whatnot. Then we were on our way again, to wander more, see another great view, and finally, to visit the old medieval wall and one of the towers, which is now a museum.

Another gorgeous view.

Amber is a big thing in Russia and Estonia. This lamp
cost a small fortune.

Inside the tower, it was very crowded, and when I got to the stairs to go to the top floor, an American couple was yelling at everyone that no one could come up anymore because it was too crowded, and to please let them come down the stairs NOW.

I avoided it all and went back down.

The last part of our tour was to walk to Town Hall Square, home to many restaurants, shops, and an outdoor market. We had some free time here. Dad opted to have a pastry and coffee at one of the outdoor cafes, while I ran off in search of more stuff to spend my money on., and more pictures to take.

There were so many pictures to take.

Into the square itself

The old medieval Town Hall

I saw at least two, maybe three Irish pubs in Tallinn.

Another Irish flag.

According to Raoul, this is one of the oldest still-open apothecaries in Europe.

After our hour in Town Hall Square, it was time to walk back to the bus and return to the ship.

Our awesome guide, Raoul. He was hysterically funny,
but also very aware of his group. He kept a very easy pace
for the older walkers, and stopped frequently to let everyone
catch up.

At the port, there was a big souvenir shop and a few smaller stands, so while Dad went back on board, I took a little walk. I wasn't quite ready to leave Tallinn yet.

The Regal Princess is behind the other two ships.

 

I never got tired of this ship. She's just so pretty.

Even the port was lovely.

Tallinn was absolutely magical, a hidden gem in Europe that is becoming more and more known all the time. I'm glad for Estonia, that as they shrugged off Soviet rule (the only nation to do so without major bloodshed), they found prosperity in many areas, including tourism. They have a lot to offer visitors, truly.

The rest of Wednesday and all day Thursday would be spent at sea, chugging towards the coast of Germany. But that needs its own post.